The Pond, Brighton. In early 1946, the Standard or London Evening Standard published the last of ten pieces by the author, poet, and journalist George Orwell. Entitled ‘ The Moon Under the Water ‘, it listed his ten criteria for the perfect pub, from the building’s architecture to it selling stamps*. As an aside, you may or may not know that this was one of the inspirations when Sir Tim Martin founded the eponymous J.D. Wetherspoons.

Now, when I was a publican, my dream was the perfect village pub. All thatch and beams and maybe an inglenook. The low murmur of contented locals. Sunlight streaming on cool flagstones and a warm welcome from behind the bar. If I was being really optimistic, the beers would be poured straight from the cask. Dark, foaming ales brewed for generations and enjoyed in quiet contemplation. How times change.

Ask me today and I’m open to all sorts of different venues from the splendour of the high-backed mirrored bars and grand styling of Victorian city pubs to funky, street corner craft beer joints. But what I’ve learnt most after over twenty years in the business is that what really makes a pub special is the people, the staff and the customers. You can have the most incredible building, great food and drink, but without the people it’s practically worthless.

*George Orwall hit the nail on the head with suggesting every pub should sell mussels and perhaps had a glimpse of the future, suggesting every pub should sell a ‘creamy sort of draught stout’.

Why the Pond?

All of which brings me to The Pond on Gloucester Road, in wonderful Brighton. Writing a piece for Beer magazine, I recently spent a great day trying out some of Brighton’s best pubs. The tiny Hole in the Wall packed full of great beers. A sumptuous Sunday Lunch served at the glorious Lion & Lobster on its hidden rooftop terrace. The city is packed with great places to eat and drink, especially if you venture away from the tourist traps. And that is certainly the case for The Pond.

A quick stroll away from the Victorian railway station but discreetly tucked away at the start of Brighton’s bohemian quarter, The Pond is certainly different to my dreams of a quiet country boozer. It’s fun, noisy, with a fantastic vibe and was packed when I visited, including the outside decking area. A wide range of beers are available, and the staff are happy to let you try. This touch is always a winner in my book. There is an emphasis on craft beers like Arundel Pond Water Pale Ale, but some local draught beers were available too.

Arundel Pond Water Pale Ale

Arundel Pond Water Pale Ale is a cloudy American-style pale ale made with a special strain of yeast to emphasise the fruity characteristics of the beer. It is brewed in Arundel, West Sussex, at a family-owned brewery, founded in 1992, alongside a range including Sussex Gold and Dark beers. Pondwater, the house beer of the Pond pub, is a hazy lemon colour, has pleasant citrusy notes, and is smooth and easy to drink.

The Food at the Pond

The menu is Asian influenced with flavoursome Bao buns and incredible loaded fries. It is a wonderful place to visit with a group of friends; I’d advise booking for a relaxed Saturday afternoon of supping and sipping or grabbing something tasty before a night out. I had already eaten, but purely for the purposes of research I had to try the classic pork bao a personal favourite. This version didn’t disappoint: melt-in-the-mouth pork belly, flavoursome sauce, peanut, cucumber, and spring onion.

On the new menu, there are plenty of veggie options and fried chicken, which I must go back to try. The great thing about all of this style of food with plenty of salty flavours and chilli heat is it is a perfect match with the craft beers on offer. The citrusy hoppy flavours help cut through the fatty richness of meat like the belly pork and are refreshing on the palate.

So, there you have it: a city packed full of exciting places to eat and drink, be it a quiet pint or an indulgent meal. I could have spent far longer than a day. I am going to cover a few more of the venues in detail in part two of my Brighton adventure. However, if you want to try something a little bit different that still ticks all the boxes that make a pub a pub, then try the friendly, fun Pond. I loved the decor and ambience and could quite happily have spent more time trying food and drink pairings.