The Caskaway

Ramón Bilbao Gran Reserva 2012. The first Rioja I reviewed in my tasting notes was a Reserva. Traditional Rioja producers use a series of terms indicating their quality, these terms and the conditions the wine must meet are highly regulated by the Consejo Regulador DOCa Rioja. First and foremost, the wine must be produced in the DOCa Rioja. There are around 55,000 hectares of vines grown in three different parts of northern, central Spain that make up the Rioja DOCa, La Rioja, Basque Country, and Navarre.

The top grade of Rioja is Gran Reserva indicates that the winemaker has aged the wine in both barrel and bottle for a defined minimum period. Like all wine regions there are now some more modernist producers who are pushing back against this and adopting a more terroir-based approach to their wines and experimenting with different fermentation methods for example and using French oak instead of the more usual American. Personally, as a huge fan of all Rioja and I’m happy to try as many styles as possible and love both approaches.

Why is aging important?

For many of the world’s great wines aging allows the wines to develop characteristics that are not directly dependent on the grape, its ripeness, and its fermentation. Aging in oak barrels adds characteristic aromas and flavours of spice and vanilla. It also helps smooth the edge off the tannins from the grapes skin, pips and stems making the finished wines mouth feel velvety and more drinkable. Bottle aging can add another layer of complexity and aromas such as leather, honey, and hay. Wines change colour as they age, and red wines can throw off sediment which settles in the bottom of the bottle.

What is Rioja Gran Reserva?

Rioja Gran Reserva is made mainly from the Tempranillo grape from exceptional harvests and must be aged for a minimum of five years, two years in oak barrels and two years in the bottle. Many Gran Reserva Riojas are at least ten years old as the producer will age the wines well over the minimum requirements. This aging helps smooth out tannins and add layers of flavour and complexity. There are regulations on vine density, strict monitoring of harvesting and the grapes and wine samples are tested to ensure they meet the standards for colour, aroma, and wine quality.

Ramón Bilbao Gran Reserva 2012

Ramón Bilbao was established in 1924 by Don Ramón Bilbao Murga. Today the winery has nearly two hundred hectares or vines including Tempranillo, Garnacha, and small quantities of Mazuelo and Graciano. Ramón Bilbao is at the forefront of new style terroir driven Riojas that are less oaky, with more balanced acidity and fresh tasting, while still respecting the wines heritage and tradition. Ramón Bilbao was awarded the Best Spanish Winery prize in 2014 by the IWSC.

Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva 2012 is produced from sixty plus year old vines in the Rioja Alta. Made from 90% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha Tinta, and 5% Graciano grapes and the wine is aged for thirty months in American oak barrels. A deep ruby colour, on the nose there is a deluge of ripe plums and black cherries. The first thing to hit you on tasting is the fruit and the pleasant acidity. There are classic oaky notes of spice and vanilla with sophisticated hints of tobacco, cedarwood and leather. There are plenty smooth tannins and a pronounced finish. As with all Riojas this wine will pair beautifully with lamb and would be a great accompaniment to red meats and game with rich sauces.

Grape variety                                 95% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha Tinta, 5% Graciano

Country of origin                           Spain

Region                                             Rioja

Vintage                                            2012

Alcohol                                            13.5%

Notes

Ramón Bilbao Gran Reserva 2012 is suitable for vegans.