The Caskaway

The Mall Tavern. As someone who has spent thirty odd years in the pub industry as both a manager and chef there a are few things I look for in a good pub. It’s not box ticking and a good pub certainly does not need to do everything on my list. A hunk of cheese in a crusty roll and a good pint works just as well as twenty craft ales and a menu that would please a Michelin inspector. However, on my last visit to London I think I found a pub that I would be happy to visit every day of the week.

If you find yourself between Kensington Palace and Notting Hill, there is a wealth of places to eat and drink but the Mall Tavern is a real find. A great range of real ales and craft beers. A carefully drawn up wine list of small grower suppliers. Knowledgeable, friendly staff and a lovely atmosphere. Finally, a kitchen producing some great food. George Orwell famously wrote ‘The Moon under Water’ for the Evening Standard describing his perfect pub. Well, the Mall Tavern is a serious contender for mine.

First Impressions of the Mall Tavern

I visited on a Saturday afternoon, and the bar and airy restaurant were both busy. The first thing you notice is the fabulous range of beers and cider, twenty-four to be exact. From Pilsner to London porter via Hazy IPA’s and fruit beers, enough to keep the most serious drinker happy. Nati and Andy, the couple who run the business are so passionate about beer they even have their own festival every February. The wine list is approachable with each selection available by the glass and bottle. I would loved to have relaxed with the California Pinot Noir, but I was intent on trying the beers and some food.

The first thing I noticed when I looked at the menu online was the beer and food pairing which really piqued my interest. The dishes are solid pub food classics Scotch Egg, Welsh Rabit, Battered Haddock and a Steak and Stout Pie to share. What’s not to like but as they say the proof is in the pudding. For me one of the key things about eating out and a menu like the Mall’s is the skill level in the kitchen. Better not to do too much and do it well and boy the team at the Mall Tavern nailed it on my visit.

The Food at the Mall Tavern

I started with a half of Padstow Windjammer and ordered a half pint of prawns. I cannot resist peeling sweet prawns, dipping them in Marie Rose and licking my fingers. The Marie Rose was piquant with a nice Cayenne kick. It’s an easy thing to overlook but when done correctly knock out. I then choose to spoil myself with a starter as I’m definitely a savoury type of guy. I had the octopus Carpaccio from the specials board, and it was delicious. I really love octopus, and this was a match made in heaven.

Next, I plumped for the steak. Hands up I don’t normally eat steak when I’m out as I reckon, I can cook a pretty good one at home but its a great way of seeing what a kitchen can do. Again, the team didn’t disappoint the steak was perfectly cooked and a good piece of meat. The peppercorn sauce had the necessary oomph, if a combination works well there really isn’t any reason to mess. But what I want to talk about is the fries.

Why is it so difficult for so many places to serve good chips. From triple cooked thick cut monsters cooked in beef fat to piles of pomme frites they arrive at the table cold, limp and soggy. They should be cooked to order and finished as the meal leaves the hot plate for the table and finished with plenty of salt. The fries at the Mall are great. They were hot, crisp on the outside, fluffy in the centre and well seasoned. That attention to detail summed up my whole experience. With each dish the staff bought a suitable beer, and it was just a great meal.

Finishing up

The pub has two attractive private function rooms available as well as the bar and dinning area and offers a range of menus. I cannot wait to come back to try the Sunday lunch. But another thing that really makes this place so great is it’s not a fancy gastropub. They have live music, a regular Monday night quiz and regular offers for regulars and locals. In all I’m pretty jealous it’s not my own pub and definitely wish it was my local.

Nati and Andy were away for my visit so when I got home, I emailed them a few questions as I was intrigued about their background before running the Mall. Their first pub was The Regent in Kensal Green; they started in 2006 just as the craft beer revolution kicked off. Free of tie they were early supporters of Camden and Beavertown breweries. Today you will find the likes of Kernel, Pressure Drop, Deya, Verdant and Theakston’s on tap as well some great European beers.

Next, I asked for the couple’s favourite food and beer pairing you can see they just love beer and food, and they suggested their summer lobster roasts on a Sunday with the Ominipollo prize pils that is always have on tap. Finally, I asked for some recommendations for my next visit to London. The Coach and Horses, where Ali the landlady always has some great beer one. The tap rooms at Evins and Cloudwater in Bermondsey. And to eat the peerless St John. I have to try their Gin and French and the Breton cider. They are definitely on the bucket list and may feature in my next review.