The Caskaway

Purely for the purpose of research, last weekend I found myself heading to Jersey Airport at six in the morning and a taking a flight to London. Once you get used to island living planes are almost like taxis. By nine I was building up an appetite walking along the South Bank, destination Borough Market. I’d seen a post by one of my favourite restaurants about a new Fisherman’s Breakfast and the opportunity was too good to miss.

Borough Market

For those of you unaware of the foodie paradise that is Borough Market, it is but a stones throw away from Southwark Cathedral and the glistening steel and glass pinnacle that is the Shard. Just round the corner from London Bridge station, the hustle and bustle of the busy vendors and hundreds of visitors competes with noise of the trains rumbling overhead. A market has been held on and off at the site since the twelfth century it is now run by a charity overseen by local volunteers.

The Tinned Fish Market

First off is almost a place of pilgrimage for me, The Tinned Fish Market who sell the most amazing, well yes tinned fish. They do a fantastic postal delivery service but it’s nice to see all the tins all laid out. They have the most amazing selection of anchovies, wild Norwegian seatrout flavoured with juniper and little tins of smoked mussels that are to die for! But that is just the start if you like food the vast array of specialist suppliers will blow your mind.

Cheese, cheese and more cheese. Butchers, bakers, fishmongers, and yes, I sampled a couple of oysters, delicatessen, wine merchants and much, much more. I could bankrupt myself there in hours. Then there are the food stalls and restaurants you can try Boa buns, Meze plates, freshly made Chicken Shawarma, Indian vegetarian dishes and goat’s milk ice cream all with in a few steps. Everything freshly prepared and deliciously tasty. But I was heading to the side of the market and the wonderfully named Wright Bros. Ltd Oyster & Porter House. Famous for their pound a pop oysters, now doesn’t that sound like heaven.

Wright Bros. Oyster & Porter House

Working my way through the crowds, a word of warning at only ten o’clock the market was already full of shoppers and tourists. The tourists following guides with brightly coloured umbrella raised aloft. Wright Bros. was already opening up, the tables were set, and I could see a row of chefs busy in the open kitchen preparing mis en place for lunch. This is the original restaurant in a group that now includes outlets in Mayfair and Battersea and an online fishmonger. The restaurant had advertised the launch of a new breakfast offer and do you know I think I was the first to try it.

Now if you love all things seafood, come on I live on an island, I think you would love this. Imagine perfectly seared plump scallops and a couple of thick rashers of bacon served in a toasted bun oozing with unctuously rich, buttery Hollandaise sauce. Now what is a guy researching food and drink going to have with this beautiful breakfast. Well, I can tell you ten o’clock or not I reached for a pint of Wright Bros. own Oyster Stout. Brewed by Harbour Brewing in Cornwall, the bitter coffee and chocolate notes married perfectly with the seafood breakfast special. I can truly say it was worth the early start.

The Market Porter

I would have quite happily whiled away a couple of lazy hours with another pint or two and perhaps the Saturday papers, but I was on a mission and besides the pub was calling. I had wanted to visit the famous Market Porter one of only two remaining ‘early houses’ left in London. They open early in the morning in time for the market workers finishing their shifts, and maybe the odd nightclubber returning home. Unfortunately, this Victorian era boozer doesn’t open early at the weekend, so I made for the Wheatsheaf.

The Wheatsheaf

The Wheatsheaf pub is well worth a visit because despite being a grade two listed historic building the entire top storey was removed to make way for the Thameslink rail upgrade. You literally sit under the railway line. It is a Youngs pub, and I was served a very nice Young’s London Special. It does seem strange that the two London based pub chains both divested their brewing interests but that’s a story for another day. The pint was hoppy with toasty overtones this was one of four cask ales available on the day. The pub is divided with an outside seating area and does a nice line in stacked burgers and freshly made artisan pizzas.

I had made plans to move on to some more pubs north of the river, so I didn’t visit half as many of the interesting venues close by. I want to see the George, the last galleried inn left in the city and perhaps try a pint at the Mudlark and the Anchor. And I have to grab an early pint at the Market Porter all the more reason to plan another visit.