It’s Rioja review time again and today’s choice is another Reserva, this time from a family-owned winery in what was once considered to be the poor relation of Rioja’s D.O.Ca-defined growing regions. I’m writing this just before Easter and I think my brain is just wired to think about eating roast lamb on Easter Sunday and a nice Rioja is my perfect accompaniment. This choice wasn’t really about trying something new, although I have never tried this particular wine, it was all about diving into something I was pretty sure I was going to enjoy.
Bodegas Ondarre
Bodegas Ondarre was founded in 1985 by the family behind Bodegas Olarra, a celebrated vineyard based in the Rioja Alta. Bodegas Ondarre is situated in the northwestern part of Rioja Oriental, previously known as Rioja Baja, based in the small town of Viana which is on the world-famous Camino de Santiago. This is a series of pilgrimage routes from across Europe leading to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The town has a long and interesting history as a settlement first founded by the Romans, later invaded by the Moors, and fought over in both the Peninsular and Spanish Civil Wars.
The vines are an average of twenty-five years old and grow on southern-facing slopes, in one of seven different types of soil in the area. The soil quality is generally poor which encourages the vines to work harder sending their roots deep in search of nutrients and water. Poor soil quality often helps produce higher-quality grapes and better wines. If grapes have access to too much water, they produce big fat grapes, but these have less flavour and sugar content than grapes from vines that are made to struggle a little.
The grapes are harvested by hand and fermented separately for sixteen to eighteen days in stainless steel tanks before being blended. The wine is then aged for a minimum of sixteen months using twenty-five per cent French and seventy-five per cent American oak barrels. The wine is racked 4 times in this period which softens and enhances the fruity character of the finished wine, it is then bottled and undergoes further bottle aging before release.
Ondarre Reserva Rioja 2017
Ondarre Reserva Rioja 2017 is a blend of two grape ninety per cent Tempranillo and ten per cent Mazuelo. Mazuelo is thought to be of Spanish origin but is grown throughout the Mediterranean. Known in France as Carignan the vines are high-yielding, and the thick-skinned grapes are used to add colour, acidity, and tannins to wines. Ondarre Rioja Reserva 2017 is a dark cherry red colour with the traditional aromas of leather, vanilla, and spice from the oak maturation.
I found it to be exceptionally smooth almost creamy on the palate with lots of fresh strawberry, cherry, and vanilla flavours, it is a very fruity glass of wine. All this fruit is balanced with enough acidity and a very long, smooth finish with velvety tannins, and a hint of bitter coffee, for a very drinkable wine. I think it is a great example of a classic Rioja Reserva at a great price and will pair perfectly with lamb or a plate of cheese.
Grape variety 90% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo
Country of origin Spain
Region Rioja
Vintage 2017
Alcohol 14%
Notes
Ondarre Reserva 2017 is suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
The Caskaway 
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